In time these will come naturally when making garments in the future. Learning to Sew for Beginners – Where to Start? Zig-Zag. Seam Finishes. As you can see, these are pretty straight forward and can be used by anyone of any level of sewing ability. (you are turning under the raw edge of the seam allowance). Seam Finishes Page2 Clean-Finished Seams EquipmentNeeded: conventionalsewingmachine SuitableFabrics: verylight-tomedium-weight fabrics—sheers,voiles,silksandanyfabricwherea doublelayerwon’taddbulktotheseamline Thisisabeautifulfinish,especiallyonfinefabrics,that requiresnospecialequipment.It’ssuitableforthe insideofanunlinedjacketaswellasmostanygarment HOW: **Megan recently did a detailed tutorial on french seams. Remembering that depending on which one you use will dictate the overall look and durability of your finished garment. With WRONG sides together, sew .5cm or 1/4” from the raw edge. � p�5>Ցc�w�]UQX:�1��t�O+G�V�'?A\]�u���rj(��(�u��l������Ո�X�T��V��˙�ٱ}Z���ki�&�z�O��F\�0E[�Y����A�z�|��s#�~5QEQEQEQEQEWq�.�#q You can either serge both sides of your seam allowance and press open, or serge them together and press to the side. )���WP�{+�m�`�c�;f��0��Ɖ��Y1����6�؏�u5ī #tQ\����䳚�?�K���� M ����Ҹ�j'Q���(�D�U+[���o��k^ This is the easiest, fastest and most professional method for sealing the raw edges … Seams have raw edges which tend to ravel out. The zig-zag cut edge helps to prevent the fabric from fraying. WHEN TO USE IT: light to medium weight woven fabrics. Sew 1cm or 3/8″ away from the folded edge and press again. So if it is a garment or fabric that can get away with this then, why not use it? There are many different types of seam finishes you can choose from to give your seam a tidy finish. WHEN TO USE IT: Stable fabrics (fabrics that don not fray easily). But as you can see the seam has yet to be finished. First, you will need to create a plain seam by placing two pieces of material, right sides together, and stitching on the wrong side of the fabric, at the required seam allowance, usually 1.5cm or 5/8″, then open and press flat with an iron. Very, very versatile, and I use it on everything unless a finish is not required (such as in a flat felled seam, french seam). FRENCH SEAM. Finishing off your seams is probably one of the most important parts of the sewing process. So I’m going to keep this short and sweet. With right sides together, sew your seam and press open. ?�i?�r�6ɑ��A��NUO��]r�s����և�t������Q���j+��ZVX̟+;mZ��G� Z����~�5R��ג/�j�ke�y���g��,����Y$�����=��qܖx C�I��j��WPMug��{��Z�(��(��(��(��(��(��(��)�H�H�*�r���Mr�����K����z��e*�XGPkWI���m:��=���� �r�P�>� HOW: You will need a pair of pinking shears to get started. Use any one of the following to finish of your seam, to prevent your fabric from fraying. HOW: This is a really simple finish. There are two types of overlock seams – 3 thread and 4 thread. Double-stitched seam. This type of seam is just like a plain seam except there are two lines of … I do like the professional look of the overlocked finish to my seams, and I also like to keep my friends guessing as to whether or not I made it or if it were shop-bought. Seam class-3: Bound seam. It is also called a single needle Butterfly ... 2. You can either zig-zag both sides of the seam allowance and press the seam open, or you can zig-zag the two sides together, and press to one side. Seam class-5: Decorative seam. May be too bulky for heavier fabrics. Ev�&�u/A}&0 �w�"��� �������۫)�X��U�ߧ��ttV6�s�m���W���Ե�Q��>�]��oSLх�8V�v*��޼��(��(��(��(��(��(��(��(��)Te���:����HU��22�"��Γ���]i�_��=�Z�#��r��|�d�? I will highlight the most commonly used basic seams used today, and when you should use them. Seam class-1: Super imposed seam. Binding (clean finish - usually 301) Binding (coverstitch - 602 or 605 ) Binding (Mock clean finish binding - 2 operations) Binding (Mock clean finish binding - 2 operations) Deco Stitching Elastic attaching - 3 or 4 needle 401 stitch Elastic attaching - 406 or 407 stitch - underwear Facing to front with Zipper Felling (Mock Felled Seam) 1.Plain seam. Different Types of Seams and Their Uses on Garments. Seam class-4: Flat seam. So, depending on the garment, fabric and the resources you have available to which seam finish you end up using. 4.Hairline seam. Pinked Seam. With the other side, fold it inward in half  – the raw edge should meet the seam. �]O��H�K� � �g�VN��>�|ɂbncoj诣�g�au�Ī*�Z�Ұ�3���X�}������Iv�A]�Υ��Io�E�ƝMqڷ��uP1��'��~�U�!�`�ΰ'���O��Yn"�_W?ҵ5h�.�6i�F1�;�+��t��'-u�y~��5B�(��(��(��(��(��(��(��(�-��e�(�r���=q3����9�$� ��MݕŜ�9�d#ۃWlu`�}��/�[v�'���}��i�Q���s���ţjkr���+��=�:�?�%Դu���D�>V^q�MҴ�`�&��^Wr��A�k���3�z�+S\]-a��5b�T:u���m���!��FG�i���z��*[�� v&?�L�u�t��֤]"�� �����rz��#ii��?CM�}GMpRIbǿ��^%K�[=I/���5CŚv8��]���/�Ms4QEQEQEQEQEQEQEQE �r85�k��E�uK�� ��R��nd��?�Ͳ��.� ܑ�H{|�kþ!��f�t[x� �f�[�Z���&In# HOW: By using the zig-zag setting on your machine. Different Types of Seam Finishes and Their Uses. In a Plain seam, two fabrics are joined together along the seam line by a line of stitching. When I first started out sewing my own clothes, I commonly used a zig-zag as I did not have an overlocker/serger, but it was my next purchase and I have never been without one as it is my preferred seam finish for pretty much ALL of my sewing requirements. trim seam allowance to .25cm or 1/8″ and press. Nothing too difficult here! =M2�X���Xnc$� 85B� ¶��. Plain seam with a single stitch. Seam class-2: Lapped seam. ��f�I�|���i�QEQEQEQEQEQEW_�9�.m�B7 Fold this over top of the trimmed side of the seam, so that it completely covers it. WHEN TO USE IT: Sheer/lightweight/delicate fabrics. May be too bulky for heavier fabrics. Turn your fabric so the RIGHT sides are now together, encasing your previous trimmed seam and press. WHEN TO USE IT: Any type of fabric, average to heavyweight is preferred as sheer and really delicate fabrics may shred. A French seam completely encases the raw edge of the seam allowance, creating a clean and professional finish on a garment where the seam might be visible. ]�hm���欯�4�¾��lS��ʙ��I��{Q��4ۃ�mn��"��EQEQEQEQEQEQEQEm��t��ͻ� ��4��24n�YN56�t�W�N��y��k�i�uo͵�܄ �+.��W����p��G�����)yi�j7)Q���ȧ�Z��]���� It is the easiest of seam finishes as it requires no sewing to finish the edge. With a serger. Also – this one is seen from the outside of the garment and leaves a nice topstitched decorative finish. It is a good idea to test it on a piece of scrap fabric first – try a smaller stitch length for lighter fabrics, and a longer stitch for heavier fabrics. 3. Take a look at your jeans, boardshorts and/or shirts – you will find that they have flat-felled seams! Then, press the seam open and trim ONE side of the seam allowance back to .5cm or 1/4″. HOW:  By starting with WRONG sides together (yes this is done in reverse) and sewing a very narrow seam of .5cm or 1/4″  from the raw edge before turning through and enclosing it with your finished seam by stitching “1cm or 3/8” from the folded edge (previous seam). Something that may not be washed or worn a lot is best. If there is a seam that you are having problems with or have heard of and need more clarification on it, please comment below, I am here to help. �H ��q�5V�ye���kHG���EUп��� �]VF�u��O-U4;#}�A \�����?ݬp����a�����(��(��(��(��(��(��(��(��)P�Bj�d�b$b�QYI�J�5��5o5G�*��~��5�aZ�,'�T/�bA�U}� ��������iZF�5��+M3Hǖ5��/N[['��v���=��mr���M��;W�*�QEQEQEQEQEQEQEQEQEl��e����yL}ֱ��Ha�$^ You’ll need an overlocker/serger machine to do this. Flat Felled Seam. How to decide which seam is suitable for your sewing. You can, of course then add another seam for strength and/or decorative purposes, to look like the sample picture above. French Seam. Therefore the raw edge of seams are finished by different methods like double stitching over cast stitching, herring bone stitch, hem stitching, zig-zag stitch and bound finish. WHEN TO USE IT: Sheer/lightweight/delicate fabrics. By simply cutting close to the edge with your pinking shears and pressing your seam.